What is a chaton and what is it used for?
The term ‘chaton’ often causes confusion in the art of goldsmithing: is it a type of setting, a workpiece or a finished component? In fact, it is all of these at once – and one of the oldest, most elegant techniques for setting a gemstone securely whilst still allowing light to pass through.
Where does the term come from?
‘Chaton’ comes from French and literally means ‘setting’. In jewellery-making, it refers to a very specific type of setting, also known as a box setting, coronet or arcade setting – the name ‘coronet’ (‘little crown’) refers to its visual resemblance to a small crown.
What exactly is a chaton setting?
A chaton setting combines two classic techniques: the bezel setting and the prong setting. A narrow precious metal ring (the bezel) encircles the stone at its girdle, whilst additional prongs grip it from above, providing extra support. This dual security makes the chaton stable whilst remaining visually open – the stone remains visible from all sides and captures light almost unimpeded.
Structure: bezel, prongs and shank
Bezel: a conical ring made of precious metal, precisely tailored to the size of the stone
Prongs: cut out from the upper edge of the bezel (usually 4, 6 or 8), bent over the girdle
Base ring: soldered to the underside, connecting the chatons to the piece of jewellery
What is a chatons used for?
Solitaire rings with a central diamond or coloured gemstone
Pendants and necklaces with a single-set stone
Earrings, particularly those with smaller stones
Arranging several small chatons to form a pattern
Chaton compared to other types of settings
| Type of setting | Principle of operation | Typical application |
| Chaton setting | Frame + brackets combined | Solitaire rings, pendants |
| Frame setting | A metal strip completely encircles the stone | Round/oval-cut stones |
| Crimp setting | Only brackets, no continuous frame | Engagement rings, maximum light transmission |
| Channel setting | Stones placed side by side in a metal rail | Memory rings, eternity bracelets |
The difference compared to a pure prong setting: the additional bezel provides greater stability, whilst slightly reducing the amount of light entering the lower section.
Points to bear in mind during the setting process
- Select a bezel that fits the stone size precisely (otherwise there may be a loose fit or excessive tension)
- Match the colour of the alloy to the jewellery piece
- The number of prongs affects both security and the amount of light entering the stone
- Bezel frames that are too thin can easily warp during soldering
The chaton is one of the most technically sophisticated types of setting in the art of goldsmithing: the bezel frame and prongs secure the stone reliably without obscuring its brilliance – which is why it remains the classic choice for solitaire jewellery to this day.
